Early to bed, early to rise. We were at the base of the Mountain by 0700 after a 4km walk from the camp. Signing the register at the base the signs indicated we were about to take on a little more than we originally planned! 750m vertical was pretty tough going but the view across the whole of Flinders Island and across to Tasmania was well worth the effort
Pano shot from the top
Back to the base we chanced upon the couple from yesterday and hitched a ride halfway back. Kayaks packed again and 1430 departure for Thunder Bay. The forecast from our kayaking expert, Karel Vissel, was a shift to the East and this allowed for the sails to take us across Franklin Sound (Flinders to Cape Barron Island) at 8km/h.
Thunder Bay arrival was late afternoon and with a big paddle ahead we had a big meal and early night. We had contacted the girls and knew they were on the Spirit of Tasmania and our plan was to meet at Musselroe Cove at about 1500hrs
Only a few marsh flies to contend with and the sand was very hard so pitching tents and setting up camp was effortless. We now had our sequence of loading/unloading and setting/shutting down camp to a fine art. The food and water consumed had made for extra room and each day we had more space appearing in the hulls. We had also learnt to make better use of the compartments.
Rain overnight had cleared and we aimed for 0800 start again. The two stage day was looking good as we had planned to track around Big Green Island but it soon became apparent the kayaks could take a shortcut through the shallow waters that were marked as dry at high tide. Carlo managed to get 'bogged' at one stage and had to get out and reposition to deeper water, otherwise it was calm and easy paddling.
5min before the complete turn of weather
Too easy it seemed, but not for long. We were in the wind shadow of a mountain and heading into Fotheringate Bay where we could see white caps. Within minutes we were punching into 25knt headwinds and waves crashing over the kayaks. From the easiest to the most difficult within 5 minutes. And that is what makes Bass Strait such icon for sea kayakers
Pushing on we made the otherside and found refuge tracking around the rocks. The landscape was surreal. Crystal clear waters and red granite boulders that looked so cleansed and untouched.
Then back into the south easterly and around Trouser Point and we had another 1nm of Bass bashing before we picked a site at the Sth end of Trouser Bay. It was already clear that stage two was not on the cards today. Progress into the 25 knt wind was just untenable so unpacking gear and setting up our camp on the beach was next
Breathtaking
Mt Strezleki towered over us and with a few hours up our sleeve we grabbed water bottles and found the road. Heading to the Sth we looked for tracks through the very dense scrub, but walking half way around we decided we would run out of light and abandoned our attempt. Back at our beach camp a couple with two young kids headed our way. From Canberra they explain we needed to go back to the road and turn left, about 5hrs return trip.
The Thunder Bay arrival was late afternoon and with a big paddle ahead we had a big meal and early night. We had contacted the girls and knew they were on the Spirit of Tasmania and our plan was to meet at Musselroe Cove at about 1500hrs
Bass Strait could be segmented into 'crossings' and 'coastal runs'. The crossings are long and tough even if the tides, currents and winds work with you. If they work against you they can break you. We know because that nearly occurred the first day/night!
Whilst not the longest crossing, the last day across Banks Strait was one of the most technically difficult. The current can travel faster than you can paddle if you pick the wrong time to cross. Our estimated time for crossing on the day was on the ebb tide at around 1430. It was a 3-4hr paddle so we aimed to leave Clarke Island at 1230-1300. But we also had 20km from Thunder Bay before we got to Clarke Island.
Spikes Cove
Again we set off at 0800. We cut through several rocky points to maintain a better angle for sailing and made good progress to Clarke Island. The kayaks enable us to access areas a boat could not go due to shallows and no picture or video could do the scenery justice. With one spare hour before our planned crossing we coasted around Spikes Cove - unbelievable, pristine little bays and beaches with granite outcrops that we vowed tocome back too
Keen to go we left the Cove at 1245. The wind was at about our nine o'clock as we rounded the point and felt the current for the first time. Holy smoke, we immediately had to turn nearly 45' to the left to maintain our heading. After 30 min with our heart rates climbing into the 130 zone we knew this was going to be a tough afternoon.
We struggled with less than 5km/h for 30min before deciding on a different course (ferry gliding) and anticipating the tidal stream reversing at about 1500hr and taking us the other way to the finish. We struggled mentally with the feeling we were going nowhere for hours. The angles of vision to various waypoints didn't change and we kept each other amused with our own strange sense of humor to help pass the time, frustration and pain go quicker. It was a tough few hours, but in hindsight we felt it was a 'just' way to finish our trip. An easy finish would not have been appropriate given the anxiety we had felt at the beginning
With 2km to go, according to our magic watches, we thought we saw flags on the coast line. Then we saw them move! A few minutes later we realised the girls had been signaling us and waving us in towards the cars and parking area.
We had done it!
We knew we would make it through some how, and after the first days ordeal it was hard to imagine it getting any worse. To progress through ordeals with a trusted friend makes it so much easier. Bass Strait solo is another level and we have a new respect for those who have completed such a feat. We were looked after more than once by fate, we had to dig deep several times, but it was so worth while and we learnt so much along the way.
Our respective partners were worried the whole time and we did not wish them for such concern, but they were so supportive - thanks Marianne and Judy, it was tough for you both but you were behind us the whole way in mind and spirit and we love you both so much
Tidal stream was favorable with the flood tide (rising), so with low tide at 9am we aimed to start between 0800 & 0830. Packing always seems to take longer than expected. We rose at 0545 and still only managed 0830 after packing, breakfast and stuffing the kayaks
Roydon Island was a real treat. It is hard to say if this little gem will be around for long. Blogs such as this provide too much info at times and some things should be kept a secret. It really was special to enjoy the hut.
Wow!
The day's passage was relatively uneventful. A few Dolphins gave us a surprise and the last 3nm were tough into a 20knt SE, but we pulled up to the south of the pier to find a great little BBQ area and tables. Luxury with the rain. In to town 200m, and a quick pot at the pub, down to 'Freckles Cafe' for a burger, supermarket for last band aids oranges, bananas, and a mixed salad pack, then the butcher for a side of cow and we were set! Tents up and tomorrow would be a day of sticking coastal to avoid the Strong SE.
A nice little luxury
We had planned a two stage day tomorrow, 10nm to near Mt Strezlecki, climb the mountain and then another 10nm to Thunder Cove. But, we bumped into the yatchies from Deal Island who were from Port Stephens and they said there was a huge concert at the southern end of the island tomorrow night. Bugger!
Dinner with the Caretakers on Deal was much appreciated on Tuesday night. Andrew, Jen, Sabastian and Annabelle were great hosts and we were 'fattened up' for the big crossing planned for the next day.
I tried to sleep, but only gathered one or two hours at best. Deal Island to Flinders was our biggest crossing and the one I was most nervous about. We had two options planned, Killicrankie (further East) or Roydon Island, the former had a camp ground and cafe, the later a beautiful beach hut.
Up early for weather reports and the decision to go or not, we decided it was 'game on'. There was a sea fog which allowed only two km vis. Our departure had to coincide with the flood tide to ride the strong current out to the south through Murrays Pass around South Bluff and track SE for Flinders. We tracked for Killicrankie and expected 9hrs to paddle the 30nm (64km). Conditions were OK, but not great. The flood tide meant we were constantly battling the tidal stream from the NE and the Easterly wind combined to make our progress about 2.8kts (6km/h). At 1pm and 5hrs in I suggested to Carlo we should change course for Roydon Island. We turned another 20' to the South and with sails pulled tight we picked up to 3.5kts (7.5km/h). As usual we stopped every hour for stretch, drink and snack. At the 7hr mark we still had the sea fog and had been tracking on a compass bearing and reviewing progress on our Suunto watches only. It was very eerie! Our first massive crossing completed in the dark and the second in a sea fog.
Crystal clear water full of Abalone and Crays!
We passed two yachts and one rock outcrop (Beagle rock) but did not spot land until nearly 8 hrs of paddling had transpired and we had roughly 10nm (18km) to go. It was a huge relief and it felt like we had 'made it'. But we hadn't yet. The tide was now dropping and the tidal stream turned and made the last 6nm (10km) very tough going. Our planned 5pm arrival was now 6.30pm and getting out of the kayaks onto the pristine beach was one of the best sensations. The cuts, sores, blisters and muscle aches were worth it when we found the beach hut.
A well deserved break
At this point we thought we had found paradise. Carlo started to unpack and found his rear hatch had leaked and everything was wet. Bugger, another lay day to dry it all out!
No words needed
We then found a dead penguin and its baby caught in a disused fishing line. We cut the baby free but it's leg was damaged and it scrambled under the hut and we don't know if it will survive as it still had down feathers.
Thursday was spent drying, relaxing and blog drafting! Abalone shells lay everywhere and it would have been great if we packed a mask and snorkel!
Weather was as predicted. SE 5-10knt and seas 1-1.5mtr similar direction
We took longer to pack than expected and left at 0840 after being bitten alive by Marsh flies that drew blood whilst we tried to fit everything back in the amazing watercraft.
Rockpool Tarans are able to travel at great boatspeed whilst taking up to 80kg of gear and our 90kg mass and then travel through just about any conditions. These expedition kayaks have evolved with a bladed nose that slices through waves and the hull has a flat bottom to enable planning when catching runners. We love them for our purposes. We purchased these from Rob and Mark at Expedition Kayaks - great guys with great gear!
Our progress to Deal Island was steady and consistent with few surprises other than the amazing cliff faces that towered over us on our track around the bottom of Dover/Erith Islands and into Murrays Pass. The current was strong, as predicted, and our landing through the crystal clear waters was pretty much spot on time. 22nm (41Km) and 6hr20min
We wish we had time to enjoy this more
A quick climb up the hill to the 'Telstra chair' to sort SARwatch with Judy and Marianne was completed. There was a 'yachtie' also at the location, which he explained is apparently in direct line through the saddle of Dover/Erith Islands to Wilsons Prom and gives a 3 bar 3G signal. Then the caretakers came down the little road on their way to the beach. They invited us to stay in the 'guesthouse' which had a shower and toilet! Luxury compared to the camping with Marsh flies again, so we took the offer.
The Telstra chair - move 30m and no reception is available :-(
The forecast for Tues was stronger SE wind. A lay day was called after Wednesday was forecast for NE winds which we might be able to utilise with our small sails. We visited the great little Museum on Deal, rested and walked up to the lighthouse and the WW2 plane wreck
The view from the top is awesome - careful or the door shuts behind you ;-)
Not much stood between the adversity of the night before and the relief of awaking in a warm sleeping bag. The low tide and what we had 'surfed' over last night was also a surprise. A near full moon meant large tides and our late arrival coincided with the high thankfully
Today needed to be a recovery day. Forecasts received on the Sat phone were not favorable so we would hike to the lighthouse after breakfast and do all our SARwatch and social calls. The hike was only about 3km, however it was through long tussock grass and made for hard work. The view was amazing. On return we recharged (in priority) Sat phone, Suunto watch, VHF radio, iphone (telstra), iphone (Optus), gopro, and finally the ipad for Navionics updates
Carlo was much better. A good feed, midday snooze, reorganizing and reflection on the events the day before had us in good spirits. We kayaked to the other side of the bay to visit the remains of the historic hut that was unfortunately burnt down 12mths ago. A spring with fresh water we had read about in other blogs was also found 100mtr to the south. Should we relocate? It was a better camp site, so we paddled back but concluded our energy was better conserved.
The next day forecast was good. Light headwinds, seas 1-1.5mtr and consistent for the day. Our arrival at Deal Is was on the slack tide which meant the current in Murrays pass would be in our favor. This was important as the pass was treaturous in the wrong conditions. Our ETD was 8am and we expected a 6hr crossing in these conditions
After the two days driving down the coast to Port Welshpool we awoke at 3am to a gale force wind that threatened the tarp. It was intensifying by the minute, 'Carlo, quick we need to get it down' and a few minutes later we were back to our beds and out like lights until 6am.
Wind predictions were questionable, 25-30 knots but it did gust to 50 knots (85km/h)! Down at the Port we could not see the true strength on the channel waters so we decided to track around to the next point where a farmer allowed us through his property to a good vantage point. It looked too strong. We decided that without the kayaks on the roof we should do the 1.5hr trek down to Wilsons Prom and Tidal River to understand what the conditions were like offshore. After a good look from various elevated lookouts we decided to head back and track for Refuge Bay, the 1st day of our float plan. Carlo was keener than myself to make our '1st Tackle' of the trip ( a referral to his brother Bernard suggesting the nerves were like the 1st tackle of a semi final match) but the conditions were abating and we had enough 'Dutch courage' to give it a crack. As a team we decided it was 'game on'.
Unbeknownst to us, we were setting up what I knew in aviation as the Swiss cheese model of accident causation. Some of what had transpired the day before was about to combine with events today to expose us to the most challenging day of our lives.
We had arrived midday Friday to Port Welshpool with time to rest, settle in and check plans. Two days prior we had spoken to Rob Mercer (Expedition Kayaks) for last advice and I recall his comment 'you will always feel like you needed more information'. He had also suggested we talk to any locals about conditions. So by coincidence the local Coastguard had a sausage sizzle and we grabbed the opportunity and finally came across 'Rocko'. He agreed to meet us at 4pm at the nearby Coastguard office
We drove down to the office and waited. During this time Carlo and I sat in the car overlooking the channel and discussed doing the trip out to Hogan in one go and skipping Refuge Cove if conditions were right. In fact I managed to load the navionics plan from the iPad into my watch 'just in case' but we could not 'share' it with Carlo on the Suunto app. Technology today 'can' be awesome, however you also need to cross reference everything (lesson learnt from Helicopter flying!)
We then chose our launch point and whilst I took a photo I stepped within a foot of a Red Belly Black snake. Nearly game over before we hit the water!
This photo was taken whilst I nearly stepped on a red belly black snake
But back to Rocko and kayaking He was ex pro fisherman, chief of local Coastguard and a lovely guy. He stepped outside to look at the kayaks and said the now predictable 'I think you need a bigger boat'. He appear 50ish, short build and obviously not a fitness freak or sea kayaker! He did not understand the capabilities of our kayaks but we didn't expect him too and we did not wish to sound overly confident. He checked the forecasts and kept advising Bass is not a place to take lightly. It was one of the three most treacherous waterways in the world and it is absolutely 'not predictable'. In fact the two forecasts we reviewed with Rocko and the Coastguard radio report appeared somewhat at odds. We advised Rocko we would keep him informed and our plan was Refuge Bay then Hogan Is from which point it was too far for him to help us.
We had sent our float plan with daily trip details to AMSA (Australian Marine Safety Authority) and VIC Waterpolice. We advised our SARWATCH was with our partners and we had PLBs (Personal Locator Beacons), marine radios, sat phone, flares, Telstra mobile and solar recharging
Upon our return to the campsite we pack the kayaks and headed to the beach for launch. The day was hot, mid thirties, and we had no shade. I had shaved my head two day prior (at least Carlo had done it for me) and was worried about getting burnt so I slapped on sunscreen. Carlo said he would put some on as soon as he had packed his kayak. It took nearly 40min to pack and was approaching midday and we were hot and anxious and had no shade. I left Carlo to take the car back to the storage facility and returned 20min later to find him ready to go and sitting under a tree. We both commented how we already felt exhausted and stood in the water for a few minutes to cool off.
Then it was time. We were anxious, apprehensive, wondering if we had prepared enough, but also keen to get the 1st day under our belts.
Once on the water we were on familiar ground and with the 25 knt (40km/h) strong NW we made 5knts (9km/h) speed down the channel. Then heading SE we had the dream run catching runners and hitting 6-7 (12km/h) knts. It was looking great, but Carlos' sail stay needed tightening and we decided to pull in to the beach and fix it. At this point we discussed a direct run for Hogan Is. We had discussed the option the day before which lead us to have the confidence to change our plan.
We calculated the trip would be 40nm (75km) in total, we had done about 7nm (13km) so the remainder would take about 6hrs and we would check progress in the 1st hr. We rang Rocko who was busy back at the 2nd day of sausage sizzles and he said 'ok, let me know when you get there'. We both felt good and agreed on the new change. We had Cliffy Isand in sight which was on our direct path and all was looking good until Carlo said he felt a bit 'odd' near Cliffy Is. He had just consumed a muesli bar and I wondered whether it was out of date!
Carlo starting to go down hill
Then I noticed the afternoon sun on the back of Carlos' neck. We were passing through the little group of islands around Cliffy Island and he said he had stomach cramps and when asked said he was feeling about 5/10. Carlo said he would battle on, but we were unaware of what was ahead. At that point we noticed the cloud formation change and the wind swung around nearly 180'.
The choices appeared to be:- we could have travelled the 13nm (22km) back into the wind but probably not to Welshpool, stay on one of the rock outcrops but there was no obvious landing spot and it was a seal colony and stank (and no doubt with large sharks as Rocko had indicated) or we had 27nm (52km) to Hogan. We could now just see Hogan so we decided to track for it.
We will never be able to describe the mind games that played out over the next few hours. The holes had started to line up - a relatively late change of plan, Rocko was too busy at the sausage sizzle to provide more weather warnings, we didn't know the local weather patterns intimately, and Carlo was suffering from heat stroke but we hadn't identified it at that point (he hadn't put sunscreen on after packing the kayak)
The wind moved from the NW to NE, then SW as the various weather fronts moved over. Rocko's words of 'totally unpredictable' came and went through my mind over and over. All while poor Carlo struggled with what I now finally realised was sunstroke. 20nm (36km) off mainland Australia and 20nm (36km) to Hogan was not a good place to be in such a predicament! I could not imagine how tough he was finding it, but he kept going like a good old Aussie digger. I was worried he would lose balance as he was so nauseous. I was constantly recalculating speed and distance, and working the horizon for telltale weather patterns. We pushed on and I tried to balance the risk of Carlo's condition and our first possible night paddle with a trigger point for possible rescue. Rocko had said they prefer to rescue people alive rather than dead and not to hold back on calling for rescue if needed.
Now we were under 3knt (5km/h) which meant the strong possibility of paddling in the dark. Not good for Bass Strait crossings! Progress was too slow and it looked stormy so I hitched the tow rope and tried to pull Carlo along a little faster. Carlo kept paddling to assist and we did this for about 1hr at 3.3knt (6km/h). It was about 2030hr when the SW hit. Suddenly Carlo said he felt 7/10 and we had some sail power. Last light was near 2100hr and the island was now a shadow. Several ships were working through the passage and one actually spotted us and stopped to see if we needed help (turning 45' toward us) but we could not risk stopping and potentially rolling or losing more time with light fading quickly. We tracked behind the ship to indicate to the captain we were OK and headed for Hogan Is. Carlo worked on staying upright and using the wind, but the NE swell made for step, challenging and rolling conditions and we now had the current and swell against us. I suggested we drop the sails but Carlo said he could not paddle against the current. The dilemma was now whether to tow Carlo again and take several more hours or take the risk of sailing at night and stay within a few meters of each other just in case. It was bizarre but the sail option was the best given our situation. I was starting to think again about what would be the trigger for a rescue call. Carlo had been dry reaching and said at one point he felt his body starting to 'shutting down'. I knew he was not making things up but I also knew his fortitude is amazing and he would fight to the end no matter what the situation. With my eye on the watch we counted every Nm (km) to go. My mind kept thinking that Carlo was not in a good state of mind to make rational decisions - do we throw the towel in or keep going? When asked he said he wanted to push on, and if he told me he was a 2 or 3 out of 10 I would pull the pin.
Someone was looking after us. We had about 5nm (9km) to go. By chance the moon was near full. We didn't want to even think what was in the water around us! We just kept telling each other one stroke after another, and bit by bit we would make it. Our watches were the best Nav tool we had in the dark. We had our kayak lights, which blinded our night vision if we fell behind one another, our head lights for landing, and the nice bright moonlight, which I jokingly suggested to Carlo was romantic (sad but necessary humour)!
The island just didn't appear to get any closer. It was now about 2130hr and Carlo had vomited again. He battled on and I tried to work various conversations to keep him distracted. 4nm (8km) to go and the tidal flow was now working with us. We were doing 3.5knt (7km/h). I was pushing the truth with ETA and suggesting we were only 45min away in the knowledge that once we saw the cliffs in the moonlight he would be in another 'zone'. 2.5nm (5km) to go, 3.5knt, truth was still 45min but I said 30 min. More dry reaching - I don't know how he did it but he did. We got to the Island cliffs and started to follow the sounds of breaking waves. I felt like we should feel relieved but I could not until we felt dry land under foot
Suddenly we thought we saw fishing boats, but it was a reef with rocks in the moonlight. On reaching them Carlo was totally exhausted and wanted to take the short cut through the gap. I convinced him not to go that way and soon we saw whitewater and louder surf in our path. Out to sea we headed again and referenced the watches. The Suunto watch told me we had about 500 mtr to go but no beach was in sight. Would the surf be crashing onto the beach? I turned my headlight on but had my wide beam lights not the spotlight. Luckily (again) Carlo had his spotlight beam. No immediate solution appeared, we could only see rocks. Then I remembered the image on a blog which suggested an old cattle yard in the corner of the bay. Heading that way we spotted the sandy beach. Another stroke of fortune, the tide was high and little swell.
It wasn't until we felt the sand under the kayaks that we had the sensation of instant relief. Giving ourselves high fives and a big hug we had made it - nearly midnight, Carlos' sunstroke, several weather patterns, blisters, rashes, ships passing in the night, 11.5hrs in the seat, a late start, and late change of plan had all aligned to make the most challenging day of our lives. A quick unpack of tents and sleeping bags, 10min of pitching them and we were out like lights without dinner!
The overnight campsite with corner of old cattle yard to the right of the tents
We can't wait for that recovery time Wow - a long way for our 1st day
Up early from a fair night's sleep, we decided to grab some fresh fruit for the crossing and some items for dinner the following night.
Once again Wikicamps saved the day with a suggestion where we could find a hot shower.
It wasn't long and we arrived at Port Welshpool a lovely coastal town for keen fishermen, one thing we noticed was that everyone's boat was BIG, We interpreted this as being what was needed if you wanted to enter the Bass, yes the mighty Bass, the butterflies were returning and anxiety levels were starting to rise again.
Another thing we noticed was the local Coastguard was having a sausage sizzle, so after setting up camp at the local caravan park we made our way over to discuss our plans with the Coastguard about our crossing Bass Strait in our sea kayaks.
As one might have guessed we were told we needed a bigger boat after seeing our kayaks on the roof of Michael's car. We had heard this comment a few times over the past months.
They were very friendly and extremely helpful and gave us an excellent rundown of the Bass and the upcoming weather conditions. Then it was time to catch up with Darren, the owner of the nearby boat storage yard at Port Welshpool. We planned to leave Michael's car and camping trailer there for our wives to pick up and take to Tasmania where they would be both meeting us at Little Musselroe Bay in approx 10 days time.
It was then back to camp to get a good nights sleep for the 1st day of the paddle.
Of course, that wasn't to be the case, at about 3am in the morning I was awoken by Michael that a gale force wind had arrived and we needed to take down the awning. That night the wind continued to blow at gale force strength which wasn't helping the butterflies in my stomach settle by any means.
After departing Newcastle we headed off for Port Welshpool where we would be leaving the mainland for Tasmania.
After late afternoon pub dinner we decided to stop the night at Lakes Entrance, after looking up a campsite on Wikicamps we decided to stay the night at the lookout car park which was not only a great view of the town it ended up being a nice quiet place to stop for the night. Showers were available down at the local boat ramp.
Next morning was D-day for Michaels hair. He had decided to make the Bass crossing bald, so we did the before and after shots
Wow has the time come so quickly, Michael and myself both have under estimated the time it has taken to get through our to do list, the last few days have been so hectic, not only are we making sure we have covered everything for our expedition but both our wives are meeting us on the other side at Tasmania with our cars and camping trailers and we have both been busy fitting out our trailers with those things that make camping that little bit more pleasant.
Both girls are little nervous as both are diving to Tasmania with our 4WD and trailers and boarding on the Spirit of Tasman to cross Bass Strait and this is going to place them both outside their comfort zone.
Until you started to prepare for a trip like this it hard to imagine all the boxes that need to be ticked. We are leaving Newcastle on the 1/1/2015 6:00am. Michael finally finished 11:30pm New Years Eve and I finished 1:30 am. It becomes so hard to turn you mind off from thinking "is there anything I have forgotten!!."
The alarm has gone off already and I roll over and look at Mez, I've got a stomach full of butterflies as I've had for the past three mornings, she has a scared look in her eyes which gives me even more butterflies. Michael will be here in 60 minutes - I need to get up and force some breakfast down.
I hear the the squeak of the suspension of Michael's trailer out the front, I look at Mez, we give each other huge cuddle "well babe the journey begins".
