After the two days driving down the coast to Port Welshpool we awoke at 3am to a gale force wind that threatened the tarp. It was intensifying by the minute, 'Carlo, quick we need to get it down' and a few minutes later we were back to our beds and out like lights until 6am.
Wind predictions were questionable, 25-30 knots but it did gust to 50 knots (85km/h)!
Down at the Port we could not see the true strength on the channel waters so we decided to track around to the next point where a farmer allowed us through his property to a good vantage point. It looked too strong. We decided that without the kayaks on the roof we should do the 1.5hr trek down to Wilsons Prom and Tidal River to understand what the conditions were like offshore. After a good look from various elevated lookouts we decided to head back and track for Refuge Bay, the 1st day of our float plan. Carlo was keener than myself to make our '1st Tackle' of the trip ( a referral to his brother Bernard suggesting the nerves were like the 1st tackle of a semi final match) but the conditions were abating and we had enough 'Dutch courage' to give it a crack. As a team we decided it was 'game on'.
Down at the Port we could not see the true strength on the channel waters so we decided to track around to the next point where a farmer allowed us through his property to a good vantage point. It looked too strong. We decided that without the kayaks on the roof we should do the 1.5hr trek down to Wilsons Prom and Tidal River to understand what the conditions were like offshore. After a good look from various elevated lookouts we decided to head back and track for Refuge Bay, the 1st day of our float plan. Carlo was keener than myself to make our '1st Tackle' of the trip ( a referral to his brother Bernard suggesting the nerves were like the 1st tackle of a semi final match) but the conditions were abating and we had enough 'Dutch courage' to give it a crack. As a team we decided it was 'game on'.
Unbeknownst to us, we were setting up what I knew in aviation as the Swiss cheese model of accident causation. Some of what had transpired the day before was about to combine with events today to expose us to the most challenging day of our lives.
We had arrived midday Friday to Port Welshpool with time to rest, settle in and check plans. Two days prior we had spoken to Rob Mercer (Expedition Kayaks) for last advice and I recall his comment 'you will always feel like you needed more information'. He had also suggested we talk to any locals about conditions. So by coincidence the local Coastguard had a sausage sizzle and we grabbed the opportunity and finally came across 'Rocko'. He agreed to meet us at 4pm at the nearby Coastguard office
We drove down to the office and waited. During this time Carlo and I sat in the car overlooking the channel and discussed doing the trip out to Hogan in one go and skipping Refuge Cove if conditions were right. In fact I managed to load the navionics plan from the iPad into my watch 'just in case' but we could not 'share' it with Carlo on the Suunto app. Technology today 'can' be awesome, however you also need to cross reference everything (lesson learnt from Helicopter flying!)
We then chose our launch point and whilst I took a photo I stepped within a foot of a Red Belly Black snake. Nearly game over before we hit the water!
This photo was taken whilst I nearly stepped on a red belly black snake
But back to Rocko and kayaking
He was ex pro fisherman, chief of local Coastguard and a lovely guy. He stepped outside to look at the kayaks and said the now predictable 'I think you need a bigger boat'. He appear 50ish, short build and obviously not a fitness freak or sea kayaker! He did not understand the capabilities of our kayaks but we didn't expect him too and we did not wish to sound overly confident. He checked the forecasts and kept advising Bass is not a place to take lightly. It was one of the three most treacherous waterways in the world and it is absolutely 'not predictable'. In fact the two forecasts we reviewed with Rocko and the Coastguard radio report appeared somewhat at odds. We advised Rocko we would keep him informed and our plan was Refuge Bay then Hogan Is from which point it was too far for him to help us.
He was ex pro fisherman, chief of local Coastguard and a lovely guy. He stepped outside to look at the kayaks and said the now predictable 'I think you need a bigger boat'. He appear 50ish, short build and obviously not a fitness freak or sea kayaker! He did not understand the capabilities of our kayaks but we didn't expect him too and we did not wish to sound overly confident. He checked the forecasts and kept advising Bass is not a place to take lightly. It was one of the three most treacherous waterways in the world and it is absolutely 'not predictable'. In fact the two forecasts we reviewed with Rocko and the Coastguard radio report appeared somewhat at odds. We advised Rocko we would keep him informed and our plan was Refuge Bay then Hogan Is from which point it was too far for him to help us.
We had sent our float plan with daily trip details to AMSA (Australian Marine Safety Authority) and VIC Waterpolice. We advised our SARWATCH was with our partners and we had PLBs (Personal Locator Beacons), marine radios, sat phone, flares, Telstra mobile and solar recharging
Upon our return to the campsite we pack the kayaks and headed to the beach for launch. The day was hot, mid thirties, and we had no shade. I had shaved my head two day prior (at least Carlo had done it for me) and was worried about getting burnt so I slapped on sunscreen. Carlo said he would put some on as soon as he had packed his kayak. It took nearly 40min to pack and was approaching midday and we were hot and anxious and had no shade. I left Carlo to take the car back to the storage facility and returned 20min later to find him ready to go and sitting under a tree. We both commented how we already felt exhausted and stood in the water for a few minutes to cool off.
Then it was time. We were anxious, apprehensive, wondering if we had prepared enough, but also keen to get the 1st day under our belts.
Once on the water we were on familiar ground and with the 25 knt (40km/h) strong NW we made 5knts (9km/h) speed down the channel. Then heading SE we had the dream run catching runners and hitting 6-7 (12km/h) knts. It was looking great, but Carlos' sail stay needed tightening and we decided to pull in to the beach and fix it. At this point we discussed a direct run for Hogan Is. We had discussed the option the day before which lead us to have the confidence to change our plan.
We calculated the trip would be 40nm (75km) in total, we had done about 7nm (13km) so the remainder would take about 6hrs and we would check progress in the 1st hr. We rang Rocko who was busy back at the 2nd day of sausage sizzles and he said 'ok, let me know when you get there'. We both felt good and agreed on the new change. We had Cliffy Isand in sight which was on our direct path and all was looking good until Carlo said he felt a bit 'odd' near Cliffy Is. He had just consumed a muesli bar and I wondered whether it was out of date!
Carlo starting to go down hill
Then I noticed the afternoon sun on the back of Carlos' neck. We were passing through the little group of islands around Cliffy Island and he said he had stomach cramps and when asked said he was feeling about 5/10. Carlo said he would battle on, but we were unaware of what was ahead. At that point we noticed the cloud formation change and the wind swung around nearly 180'.
The choices appeared to be:- we could have travelled the 13nm (22km) back into the wind but probably not to Welshpool, stay on one of the rock outcrops but there was no obvious landing spot and it was a seal colony and stank (and no doubt with large sharks as Rocko had indicated) or we had 27nm (52km) to Hogan. We could now just see Hogan so we decided to track for it.
The choices appeared to be:- we could have travelled the 13nm (22km) back into the wind but probably not to Welshpool, stay on one of the rock outcrops but there was no obvious landing spot and it was a seal colony and stank (and no doubt with large sharks as Rocko had indicated) or we had 27nm (52km) to Hogan. We could now just see Hogan so we decided to track for it.
We will never be able to describe the mind games that played out over the next few hours. The holes had started to line up - a relatively late change of plan, Rocko was too busy at the sausage sizzle to provide more weather warnings, we didn't know the local weather patterns intimately, and Carlo was suffering from heat stroke but we hadn't identified it at that point (he hadn't put sunscreen on after packing the kayak)
The wind moved from the NW to NE, then SW as the various weather fronts moved over. Rocko's words of 'totally unpredictable' came and went through my mind over and over. All while poor Carlo struggled with what I now finally realised was sunstroke. 20nm (36km) off mainland Australia and 20nm (36km) to Hogan was not a good place to be in such a predicament! I could not imagine how tough he was finding it, but he kept going like a good old Aussie digger. I was worried he would lose balance as he was so nauseous. I was constantly recalculating speed and distance, and working the horizon for telltale weather patterns. We pushed on and I tried to balance the risk of Carlo's condition and our first possible night paddle with a trigger point for possible rescue. Rocko had said they prefer to rescue people alive rather than dead and not to hold back on calling for rescue if needed.
Now we were under 3knt (5km/h) which meant the strong possibility of paddling in the dark. Not good for Bass Strait crossings! Progress was too slow and it looked stormy so I hitched the tow rope and tried to pull Carlo along a little faster. Carlo kept paddling to assist and we did this for about 1hr at 3.3knt (6km/h).
It was about 2030hr when the SW hit. Suddenly Carlo said he felt 7/10 and we had some sail power. Last light was near 2100hr and the island was now a shadow. Several ships were working through the passage and one actually spotted us and stopped to see if we needed help (turning 45' toward us) but we could not risk stopping and potentially rolling or losing more time with light fading quickly. We tracked behind the ship to indicate to the captain we were OK and headed for Hogan Is. Carlo worked on staying upright and using the wind, but the NE swell made for step, challenging and rolling conditions and we now had the current and swell against us. I suggested we drop the sails but Carlo said he could not paddle against the current.
The dilemma was now whether to tow Carlo again and take several more hours or take the risk of sailing at night and stay within a few meters of each other just in case. It was bizarre but the sail option was the best given our situation. I was starting to think again about what would be the trigger for a rescue call. Carlo had been dry reaching and said at one point he felt his body starting to 'shutting down'. I knew he was not making things up but I also knew his fortitude is amazing and he would fight to the end no matter what the situation. With my eye on the watch we counted every Nm (km) to go. My mind kept thinking that Carlo was not in a good state of mind to make rational decisions - do we throw the towel in or keep going? When asked he said he wanted to push on, and if he told me he was a 2 or 3 out of 10 I would pull the pin.
It was about 2030hr when the SW hit. Suddenly Carlo said he felt 7/10 and we had some sail power. Last light was near 2100hr and the island was now a shadow. Several ships were working through the passage and one actually spotted us and stopped to see if we needed help (turning 45' toward us) but we could not risk stopping and potentially rolling or losing more time with light fading quickly. We tracked behind the ship to indicate to the captain we were OK and headed for Hogan Is. Carlo worked on staying upright and using the wind, but the NE swell made for step, challenging and rolling conditions and we now had the current and swell against us. I suggested we drop the sails but Carlo said he could not paddle against the current.
The dilemma was now whether to tow Carlo again and take several more hours or take the risk of sailing at night and stay within a few meters of each other just in case. It was bizarre but the sail option was the best given our situation. I was starting to think again about what would be the trigger for a rescue call. Carlo had been dry reaching and said at one point he felt his body starting to 'shutting down'. I knew he was not making things up but I also knew his fortitude is amazing and he would fight to the end no matter what the situation. With my eye on the watch we counted every Nm (km) to go. My mind kept thinking that Carlo was not in a good state of mind to make rational decisions - do we throw the towel in or keep going? When asked he said he wanted to push on, and if he told me he was a 2 or 3 out of 10 I would pull the pin.
Someone was looking after us. We had about 5nm (9km) to go. By chance the moon was near full. We didn't want to even think what was in the water around us! We just kept telling each other one stroke after another, and bit by bit we would make it. Our watches were the best Nav tool we had in the dark. We had our kayak lights, which blinded our night vision if we fell behind one another, our head lights for landing, and the nice bright moonlight, which I jokingly suggested to Carlo was romantic (sad but necessary humour)!
The island just didn't appear to get any closer. It was now about 2130hr and Carlo had vomited again. He battled on and I tried to work various conversations to keep him distracted. 4nm (8km) to go and the tidal flow was now working with us. We were doing 3.5knt (7km/h). I was pushing the truth with ETA and suggesting we were only 45min away in the knowledge that once we saw the cliffs in the moonlight he would be in another 'zone'. 2.5nm (5km) to go, 3.5knt, truth was still 45min but I said 30 min. More dry reaching - I don't know how he did it but he did. We got to the Island cliffs and started to follow the sounds of breaking waves. I felt like we should feel relieved but I could not until we felt dry land under foot
Suddenly we thought we saw fishing boats, but it was a reef with rocks in the moonlight. On reaching them Carlo was totally exhausted and wanted to take the short cut through the gap. I convinced him not to go that way and soon we saw whitewater and louder surf in our path. Out to sea we headed again and referenced the watches. The Suunto watch told me we had about 500 mtr to go but no beach was in sight. Would the surf be crashing onto the beach? I turned my headlight on but had my wide beam lights not the spotlight. Luckily (again) Carlo had his spotlight beam. No immediate solution appeared, we could only see rocks. Then I remembered the image on a blog which suggested an old cattle yard in the corner of the bay. Heading that way we spotted the sandy beach. Another stroke of fortune, the tide was high and little swell.
It wasn't until we felt the sand under the kayaks that we had the sensation of instant relief. Giving ourselves high fives and a big hug we had made it - nearly midnight, Carlos' sunstroke, several weather patterns, blisters, rashes, ships passing in the night, 11.5hrs in the seat, a late start, and late change of plan had all aligned to make the most challenging day of our lives.
A quick unpack of tents and sleeping bags, 10min of pitching them and we were out like lights without dinner!
A quick unpack of tents and sleeping bags, 10min of pitching them and we were out like lights without dinner!
The overnight campsite with corner of old cattle yard to the right of the tents
We can't wait for that recovery time Wow - a long way for our 1st day
Michael
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