Thursday 31 May 2018

Keeping the Current Flowing

This is our story of how we went about keeping all of todays modern devices charged while paddling across Bass Straight to Tasmania.

As a kayaker who paddles 90% of the time out in the ocean and often on multiple day trips it's amazing how much electronic hardware is taken on board with us. I guess this is a decision that most modern day paddlers come to face when they are making decisions on what items they are going to pack on ones adventure.

I'm not sure about other paddlers, we have started to develop a packing list that both Michael and myself share and are constantly updating and amending. It covers everything from clothing to food and water, camping gear, medical supplies and the list goes on. Later on in our blog we will share all the items we pack along with a packing list as I find extremely interesting to see how other paddlers pack the kayaks and what they choose to take,  most of these are essential and without these life on a adventure would probably be very tough.
Of course depending on the amount of days you are going to be away on the paddle tends to depend on how much space space one has in the kayak. One thing I cannot stand on the front deck of my kayak is clutter it tends to make me feel claustrophobic and there's nothing worse than having tangled ropes and trying to avoid knocking things on the deck of your kayak with your paddle. I know when we start fresh in the morning ones paddle stroke is  a lot cleaner compared to one's stroke by the end of the afternoon when one's arms tired and the swell, chop and the wind has picked up causing ones stroke to get very messy and start catching items with the your inside  of the paddle or worse still your fingernail or knuckles.
During our bass straight crossing we made the decision that we were going to set ourselves up with the voltaic solar system to keep a backup battery charged so when we got to land and set up camp we could charge up  from this battery all the electronic items that we depend on on each day. This decision was not as easy as one might think, there are a lot of roads that one can go down to setting up a voltaic solar system that are waterproof, reliable and durable and not too fastidious. we read so many blogs on systems that other paddlers has shared. We both like to tinker and would probably like to consider ourselves innovative. I wish I had a dollar for how many times I've commented on how I always go back to my first  gut feeling decision.

This system was on that I first come across when I was doing a mountain bike ride from Sydney to Newcastle and basically all I wanted was to be able to keep my mobile phone charged as we were using it for navigation. I came across the boys from voltaicsystems.com ,The minute I came across this website I knew I had found what I was looking for, I knew these guys had put a lot of work in research and development and had a great sense of commercial design. I'm always a sucker for great practical ideas


Tuesday 13 January 2015

Day 11 Summit to Sea

       

Early to bed, early to rise. We were at the base of the Mountain by 0700 after a 4km walk from the camp. Signing the register at the base the signs indicated we were about to take on a little more than we originally planned! 750m vertical was pretty tough going but the view across the whole of Flinders Island and across to Tasmania was well worth the effort

       
           Pano shot from the top
                       
                  


Back to the base we chanced upon the couple from yesterday and hitched a ride halfway back. Kayaks packed again and 1430 departure for Thunder Bay. The forecast from our kayaking expert, Karel Vissel, was a shift to the East and this allowed for the sails to take us across Franklin Sound (Flinders to Cape Barron Island) at 8km/h. 

                                     

Thunder Bay arrival was late afternoon and with a big paddle ahead we had a big meal and early night. We had contacted the girls and knew they were on the Spirit of Tasmania and our plan was to meet at Musselroe Cove at about 1500hrs

Only a few marsh flies to contend with and the sand was very hard so pitching tents and setting up camp was effortless. We now had our sequence of loading/unloading and setting/shutting down camp to a fine art. The food and water consumed had made for extra room and each day we had more space appearing in the hulls. We had also learnt to make better use of the compartments. 




Day 10 Sublime to Ridiculous

                                   

Rain overnight had cleared and we aimed for 0800 start again. The two stage day was looking good as we had planned to track around Big Green Island but it soon became apparent the kayaks could take a shortcut through the shallow waters that were marked as dry at high tide. Carlo managed to get 'bogged' at one stage and had to get out and reposition to deeper water, otherwise it was calm and easy paddling. 

         
            5min before the complete turn of weather

Too easy it seemed, but not for long. We were in the wind shadow of a mountain and heading into Fotheringate Bay where we could see white caps. Within minutes we were punching into 25knt headwinds and waves crashing over the kayaks. From the easiest to the most difficult within 5 minutes. And that is what makes Bass Strait such icon for sea kayakers

Pushing on we made the otherside and found refuge tracking around the rocks. The landscape was surreal. Crystal clear waters and red granite boulders that looked so cleansed and untouched. 

Then back into the south easterly and around Trouser Point and we had another 1nm of Bass bashing before we picked a site at the Sth end of Trouser Bay. It was already clear that stage two was not on the cards today. Progress into the 25 knt wind was just untenable so unpacking gear and setting up our camp on the beach was next

   
      Breathtaking 

Mt Strezleki towered over us and with a few hours up our sleeve we grabbed water bottles and found the road. Heading to the Sth we looked for tracks through the very dense scrub, but walking half way around we decided we would run out of light and abandoned our attempt. Back at our beach camp a couple with two young kids headed our way. From Canberra they explain we needed to go back to the road and turn left, about 5hrs return trip. 

The Thunder Bay arrival was late afternoon and with a big paddle ahead we had a big meal and early night. We had contacted the girls and knew they were on the Spirit of Tasmania and our plan was to meet at Musselroe Cove at about 1500hrs

                                    









Monday 12 January 2015

Day 12 The Home Run

                                 
                                 


Bass Strait could be segmented into 'crossings' and 'coastal runs'. The crossings are long and tough even if the tides, currents and winds work with you. If they work against you they can break you. We know because that nearly occurred the first day/night!

Whilst not the longest crossing, the last day across Banks Strait was one of the most technically difficult. The current can travel faster than you can paddle if you pick the wrong time to cross. Our estimated time for crossing on the day was on the ebb tide at around 1430. It was a 3-4hr paddle so we aimed to leave Clarke Island at 1230-1300. But we also had 20km from Thunder Bay before we got to Clarke Island. 

       
         
    Spikes Cove

Again we set off at 0800. We cut through several rocky points to maintain a better angle for sailing and made good progress to Clarke Island. The kayaks enable us to access areas a boat could not go due to shallows and no picture or video could do the scenery justice. With one spare hour before our planned crossing we coasted around Spikes Cove - unbelievable, pristine little bays and beaches with granite outcrops that we vowed tocome back too

Keen to go we left the Cove at 1245. The wind was at about our nine o'clock as we rounded the point and felt the current for the first time. Holy smoke, we immediately had to turn nearly 45' to the left to maintain our heading. After 30 min with our heart rates climbing into the 130 zone we knew this was going to be a tough afternoon. 

We struggled with less than 5km/h for 30min before deciding on a different course (ferry gliding) and anticipating the tidal stream reversing at about 1500hr and taking us the other way to the finish. We struggled mentally with the feeling we were going nowhere for hours. The angles of vision to various waypoints didn't change and we kept each other amused with our own strange sense of humor to help pass the time, frustration and pain go quicker. It was a tough few hours, but in hindsight we felt it was a 'just' way to finish our trip. An easy finish would not have been appropriate given the anxiety we had felt at the beginning

With 2km to go, according to our magic watches, we thought we saw flags on the coast line. Then we saw them move!  A few minutes later we realised the girls had been signaling us and waving us in towards the cars and parking area. 

We had done it!

We knew we would make it through some how, and after the first days ordeal it was hard to imagine it getting any worse. To progress through ordeals with a trusted friend makes it so much easier. Bass Strait solo is another level and we have a new respect for those who have completed such a feat. We were looked after more than once by fate, we had to dig deep several times, but it was so worth while and we learnt so much along the way. 

Our respective partners were worried the whole time and we did not wish them for such concern, but they were so supportive - thanks Marianne and Judy, it was tough for you both but you were behind us the whole way in mind and spirit and we love you both so much

Bass Strait Log
DateDist paddledDist trekkedAv Speed km/hKCal PaddledKCal TrekkedTime PaddlingTime TrekkingEst Recovery
3rd83.287.4776311.3120
4th2.232652.17
5th41.246.533586.393
6th78802.5
7th67.286.5487510.496
8th
9th33.16720874.824
10th14.916.15120061631.311
11th26.615.287159821223.74.4519
12th46.446.132457.545
312.9130.616.72412638834710.42408

Friday 9 January 2015

Day 9 Savoring the journey


                             

Tidal stream was favorable with the flood tide (rising), so with low tide at 9am we aimed to start between 0800 & 0830. Packing always seems to take longer than expected. We rose at 0545 and still only managed 0830 after packing, breakfast and stuffing the kayaks

Roydon Island was a real treat. It is hard to say if this little gem will be around for long. Blogs such as this provide too much info at times and some things should be kept a secret. It really was special to enjoy the hut.

    Wow!

The day's passage was relatively uneventful. A few Dolphins gave us a surprise and the last 3nm were tough into a 20knt SE, but we pulled up to the south of the pier to find a great little BBQ area and tables. Luxury with the rain. In to town 200m, and a quick pot at the pub, down to 'Freckles Cafe' for a burger, supermarket for last band aids oranges, bananas, and a mixed salad pack, then the butcher for a side of cow and we were set! Tents up and tomorrow would be a day of sticking coastal to avoid the Strong SE. 

   
     A nice little luxury

We had planned a two stage day tomorrow, 10nm to near Mt Strezlecki, climb the mountain and then another 10nm to Thunder Cove. But, we bumped into the yatchies from Deal Island who were from Port Stephens and they said there was a huge concert at the southern end of the island tomorrow night. Bugger!

         
                                            
             Good progress


Wednesday 7 January 2015

Day 7/8 The Big One

                              

Dinner with the Caretakers on Deal was much appreciated on Tuesday night. Andrew, Jen, Sabastian and Annabelle were great hosts and we were 'fattened up' for the big crossing planned for the next day.

I tried to sleep, but only gathered one or two hours at best. Deal Island to Flinders was our biggest crossing and the one I was most nervous about.  We had two options planned, Killicrankie (further East) or Roydon Island, the former had a camp ground and cafe, the later a beautiful beach hut.

Up early for weather reports and the decision to go or not, we decided it was 'game on'. There was a sea fog which allowed only two km vis. Our departure had to coincide with the flood tide to ride the strong current out to the south through Murrays Pass around South Bluff and track SE for Flinders. We tracked for Killicrankie and expected 9hrs to paddle the 30nm (64km). Conditions were OK, but not great. The flood tide meant we were constantly battling the tidal stream from the NE and the Easterly wind combined to make our progress about 2.8kts (6km/h). At 1pm and 5hrs in I suggested to Carlo we should change course for Roydon Island. We turned another 20' to the South and with sails pulled tight we picked up to 3.5kts (7.5km/h). As usual we stopped every hour for stretch, drink and snack. At the 7hr mark we still had the sea fog and had been tracking on a compass bearing and reviewing progress on our Suunto watches only. It was very eerie! Our first massive crossing completed in the dark and the second in a sea fog.

        

            
    Crystal clear water full of Abalone and Crays!

We passed two yachts and one rock outcrop (Beagle rock) but did not spot land until nearly 8 hrs of paddling had transpired and we had roughly 10nm (18km) to go. It was a huge relief and it felt like we had 'made it'. But we hadn't yet. The tide was now dropping and the tidal stream turned and made the last 6nm (10km) very tough going. Our planned 5pm arrival was now 6.30pm and getting out of the kayaks onto the pristine beach was one of the best sensations. The cuts, sores, blisters and muscle aches were worth it when we found the beach hut. 

        
           
   A well deserved break 

At this point we thought we had found paradise. Carlo started to unpack and found his rear hatch had leaked and everything was wet. Bugger, another lay day to dry it all out!

                             
                                 
                                 No words needed


We then found a dead penguin and its baby caught in a disused fishing line. We cut the baby free but it's leg was damaged and it scrambled under the hut and we don't know if it will survive as it still had down feathers. 
Thursday was spent drying, relaxing and blog drafting! Abalone shells lay everywhere and it would have been great if we packed a mask and snorkel!

            
    The landing site

       

           This is how to really burn off fat!



Day 5/6 Easy does it (Hogan Island to Deal Island)

Weather was as predicted. SE 5-10knt and seas 1-1.5mtr similar direction

                                  
 
We took longer to pack than expected and left at 0840 after being bitten alive by Marsh flies that drew blood whilst we tried to fit everything back in the amazing watercraft.

Rockpool Tarans are able to travel at great boatspeed whilst taking up to 80kg of gear and our 90kg mass and then travel through just about any conditions. These expedition kayaks have evolved with a bladed nose that slices through waves and the hull has a flat bottom to enable planning when catching runners. We love them for our purposes. We purchased these from Rob and Mark at Expedition Kayaks - great guys with great gear!

Our progress to Deal Island was steady and consistent with few surprises other than the amazing cliff faces that towered over us on our track around the bottom of Dover/Erith Islands and into Murrays Pass. The current was strong, as predicted, and our landing through the crystal clear waters was pretty much spot on time. 22nm (41Km) and 6hr20min

         
           
   We wish we had time to enjoy this more

A quick climb up the hill to the 'Telstra chair' to sort SARwatch with Judy and Marianne was completed. There was a 'yachtie' also at the location, which he explained is apparently in direct line through the saddle of Dover/Erith Islands to Wilsons Prom and gives a 3 bar 3G signal. Then the caretakers came down the little road on their way to the beach. They invited us to stay in the 'guesthouse' which had a shower and toilet! Luxury compared to the camping with Marsh flies again, so we took the offer. 

 
   The Telstra chair - move 30m and no reception is available :-(

The forecast for Tues was stronger SE wind. A lay day was called after Wednesday was forecast for NE winds which we might be able to utilise with our small sails. We visited the great little Museum on Deal, rested and walked up to the lighthouse and the WW2 plane wreck

                        
                            
                           The view from the top is awesome - careful or the door shuts behind you ;-)


                        
                           
                            WWII plane wreck